Trolling Lures for Beginners: Types, Rigging, and How to Set a Spread

So you've got a boat (or access to one), you've seen the photos of lit-up mahi and yellowfin hanging at the dock, and you want in. Good news: trolling is one of the most productive ways to catch pelagic fish, and you don't need a $200,000 sportfisher to do it. You just need to understand the basics.

Let's talk lure types, how to set up a spread, what speed to run, and the mistakes that cost beginners fish.

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Types of Trolling Lures

Walk into any tackle shop and the trolling lure wall can be overwhelming. Here's how to make sense of it all.

Skirted Lures

These are the workhorses of offshore trolling - a hard or metal head with a vinyl or silicone skirt. The head shape determines how the lure moves through the water, and that matters more than most beginners realize.

  • Cup Face (Concave Head) - The most popular style for a reason. That cupped face grabs water and creates a bubble trail ("smoke") behind the lure. They have an aggressive side-to-side action even at slower trolling speeds. The Epic Cup Head 8 is a great starting point - it runs well in a variety of positions and catches everything from mahi to marlin.
  • Flat Head - The most versatile head shape. Flat heads swim with a subtle wobble and work across a wide speed range. If you could only pick one style, this is it. The Epic Flat Head 8 is a proven producer that belongs in every spread.
  • Slant Head (Angled Face) - These give you a pronounced side-to-side swimming action that imitates a fleeing baitfish. The Epic Slant Head 8 is deadly on tuna and mahi when they want something with extra movement.
  • Bullet / Jet Head - Streamlined, minimal action, designed for one thing: speed. These are your wahoo lures. When you're running 12-16 knots, a bullet head tracks straight and true where other lures blow out. The Epic Axis Wahoo Lure is purpose-built for this - stainless steel head, heavy-duty construction, made to survive the strike of a 60mph fish.

Other Trolling Lure Types

  • Feathers & Cedar Plugs - Old-school and effective. Feather jigs and cedar plugs have been catching tuna for generations. They're cheap, durable, and easy to rig. Great for filling out a spread without breaking the bank.
  • Spoons - Flash and wobble. Trolling spoons like the Clarkspoon Dart are deadly for kingfish, Spanish mackerel, and bonito. Run them slower (4-6 knots) behind a planer or downrigger.
  • Plugs - Hard-bodied diving lures. The Day Maker Fish Razr is a great example - it dives to a specific depth and has a built-in swimming action. Plugs are especially effective for mahi, tuna, and sailfish.
  • Daisy Chains & Bird Teasers - Multiple lures or teasers strung together to simulate a school of baitfish. They create commotion on the surface that draws fish from a distance. Usually run without hooks as a teaser, with a hooked lure trailing behind.

For a deeper look at all the lure categories, check out our guide on types of saltwater fishing lures.

Setting Up a Basic 5-Line Trolling Spread

A "spread" is just the pattern of lures you pull behind the boat. The standard offshore setup uses five lines in specific positions:

  1. Short Rigger - Clipped to the outrigger, closest to the boat. Run a cup face or flat head lure here. About 50-75 feet back.
  2. Long Rigger - Clipped to the outrigger, further back. This is where a slant head or flat head shines. About 100-150 feet back.
  3. Short Flat Line - Run straight off the rod holder (no outrigger), shorter distance. About 40-60 feet back. A Billy Baits Mini Turbo Slammer works great in this slot - it comes pre-rigged and ready to fish.
  4. Long Flat Line - Straight off the rod holder, further back. 75-100 feet. Match a similar style lure to your short flat but in a different color.
  5. Shotgun - The center line, run way back down the middle of the wake. 150-200+ feet. This is your "sleeper" - fish that follow the spread often eat the shotgun lure last. A flat head or plug works well here.

Pro tip: Stagger your distances so no two lures are at the same length. This prevents tangles and presents a more natural-looking "school" to approaching fish.

If you're just starting out and want a ready-to-go set of lures, the Epic Mahi Tuna Six Pack gives you six proven colors in one shot - enough to fill a spread with extras to rotate.

Trolling Speed Matters

Speed is everything in trolling. Run too fast and your lures blow out of the water. Too slow and they don't have enough action to draw strikes.

  • 6-8 knots - Standard speed for skirted lures. This is where cup faces, flat heads, and slant heads are designed to run. Watch your lures - they should be popping in and out of the water, leaving a bubble trail.
  • 4-6 knots - Spoon speed. Trolling spoons need slower speeds to get that fluttering wobble. Run them behind planers for extra depth. Check out our guide on inline planer fishing if you're new to that technique.
  • 12-16 knots - High-speed wahoo trolling. This is bullet-head territory. Only jet heads and heavy trolling lures like the Epic Axis can handle these speeds without spinning out.

Color Selection Basics

Don't overthink color, but don't ignore it either. Here's the simple version:

  • Bright, sunny days → bright colors: pink, white, chartreuse, light blue
  • Overcast or dark days → dark colors: black, purple, red, dark blue
  • Blue water → blue/purple/black combinations are proven producers
  • Green water or near structure → natural colors: green, brown, silver

When in doubt, run a mix. That's why a spread has five lines - cover multiple color patterns and let the fish tell you what they want.

Rigging Basics

You can run skirted lures two ways:

  • Lure only (skirted head + hooks) - Simple, fast, durable. Single hook rigs are easier to set and better for catch-and-release. Double hook rigs improve hookup rates on short-striking fish.
  • Lure + natural bait - Threading a ballyhoo or adding bait strips behind your skirted lure adds scent and a natural profile. This combo is devastating on mahi and tuna. If you want to learn the ballyhoo rigging technique, our how to rig ballyhoo guide walks through it step by step.

Want to get hands-on with building your own lures? The Make Your Own Lure Kit comes with three stainless steel heads and everything you need to rig them your way. It's a great way to learn how lures work from the inside out.

Common Beginner Mistakes

I see these every weekend at the inlet. Avoid them and you're already ahead of half the fleet.

  • Too many lines. Five lines is plenty. Six or seven means tangles on every turn. Start with three if you're learning, then work up to five once you're comfortable with your spread.
  • Wrong speed. Your GPS speed and your actual trolling speed through the water aren't the same thing - current matters. Watch your lures, not your speedometer. If they look good, the speed is right.
  • Not checking lures. Weed, sargassum, jellyfish tentacles - stuff gets on your lures constantly. Check them every 15-20 minutes. A lure dragging a chunk of seaweed catches exactly nothing.
  • Running all the same lure. Vary your head shapes, colors, and sizes. You're trying to figure out what the fish want - give them options.
  • Ignoring birds and surface activity. If you see frigate birds diving or bait showering on the surface, get your spread in that area. Trolling is covering ground, but smart trolling is covering the RIGHT ground.

Get Out There

Trolling isn't complicated once you understand the basics. Pick a few quality lures, set up a clean spread, run the right speed, and keep your eyes on the water. The fish will do the rest.

Start simple. A spread of flat heads and cup faces in a few different colors will catch mahi, tuna, wahoo, and billfish anywhere in the world. Upgrade and experiment from there.

Tight lines.

Know Before You Go: Regulations change frequently. Always check current size limits, bag limits, seasons, and gear restrictions with your state fisheries agency before heading out. For Atlantic species, visit ASMFC.org for interstate management updates.

Questions about tackle? Call us at 888.453.3742 or email help@thetackleroom.com.

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