How to Set Up Outriggers for Trolling

Outriggers are the single biggest upgrade you can make to your trolling game. They spread your lines wider, prevent tangles, create a more natural bait presentation, and let you run 6-8 lines where you could only manage 3-4 without them. If you troll offshore with any regularity and you're not running outriggers, you're fishing with one hand tied behind your back.

Rigging them isn't complicated - the components are simple and setup takes an afternoon. Most frustration comes from skipping details during initial setup. Get those details right and you'll wonder why you waited so long.

What Outriggers Actually Do

Outriggers are long poles mounted on either side of the boat that extend your trolling lines out to the sides at a 60-75 degree angle from the hull. This accomplishes three things. First, it spreads your baits across a wider area - a properly rigged spread covers 80-120 feet of width behind the boat instead of 20-30 feet. Second, it separates your lines vertically and horizontally, drastically reducing tangles when you hook up. Third, the higher line angle creates a more natural swimming action for trolling baits, especially ballyhoo and strip baits that need to skip and dive naturally.

When a fish strikes, the line pops free from the release clip and you're fighting directly off the rod tip. The fish feels almost no resistance at the strike, which dramatically improves hookup ratios on species like white marlin and sailfish that mouth the bait before committing.

Types of Outriggers

Three materials dominate the outrigger market, and each serves a different size boat and budget.

Aluminum telescoping outriggers are the most common and affordable option. Light, easy to deploy, and available in 12-22 foot lengths. They work great on 20-30 foot boats. The downside is flex - longer aluminum poles wobble in heavy seas, causing premature line drops. For boats under 28 feet, aluminum is the right call.

Fiberglass outriggers are stiffer and stronger than aluminum at comparable lengths. They handle rough water better and flex less, which means fewer accidental line releases. They're heavier and cost 2-3x more than aluminum. Fiberglass is the standard on boats in the 30-45 foot range and is what you see on most sportfishing boats running tournaments.

Carbon fiber outriggers are the top of the line - lightest weight, maximum stiffness, lengths up to 40+ feet. They start around $2,000-3,000 per pair. Unless you're running a 40+ foot boat or fishing serious tournaments, carbon fiber is overkill.

Rigging Components

The outrigger pole is just the backbone. The rigging system is what makes it all work. Here's every component you need and what it does.

Halyards are the lines that run from the base of the outrigger to the tip and back down. They're the tracks your release clips ride on. Most halyards are rigged with 200-400lb monofilament or braided line. The Momoi Outrigger Kit comes with pre-measured mono halyard line, crimps, and hardware to rig both sides - it's the easiest way to get started without sourcing individual components.

Release clips hold your fishing line at the outrigger tip until a fish strikes. This is the most important component in the system, and I'll take a hard stance here: thru-wire release clips are better than pin-style clips. Pin clips work fine in calm conditions, but they're inconsistent. The pin wears, the tension changes, and you end up adjusting all day. Thru-wire clips like the Epic RC100 Thru-Wire Release Clip use a wire loop that your line passes through. Tension is adjustable with a simple screw, it stays consistent cast after cast, and the line releases cleanly every time. The R&R Outrigger Clips are another solid thru-wire option that's been proven on charter boats for years.

Rupp Klickers use a rubber pad system that's forgiving on tension settings - a decent choice for beginners still learning how much tension different baits need.

Pulleys mount at the outrigger tip and allow the halyard to run smoothly. The Hal-Lock Outrigger Pulley is the industry standard - stainless steel with a locking mechanism that prevents the halyard from jumping the sheave in rough water. Don't cheap out on pulleys. A $5 pulley that jams at the tip means climbing the outrigger or bringing it down to fix the problem while your spread is in the water.

Snubbers are short rubber shock absorbers installed between the release clip and the halyard. They absorb wave action and boat movement that would otherwise pop your clips prematurely. Glass outrigger snubbers are nearly indestructible and maintain their elasticity in sun and salt for years. Run one snubber per release clip.

Stops limit how far the release clip can slide down the halyard. Calcutta Outrigger Stops crimp onto the halyard at the positions where you want your clips to sit. Most anglers run 2-3 stops per side to give themselves multiple clip positions for different spread configurations.

Step-by-Step Setup

Here's how to rig outriggers from scratch. This assumes your poles and bases are already mounted to the boat.

Step 1: Run the halyards. Thread your halyard line through the tip pulley and back down to the base. You'll end up with two tag ends at the base - one controls the up-line (raising the clip to the tip) and one controls the down-line (lowering it). Secure both ends to cleats or a halyard tensioner at the base. Use Diamond Braid in 80-100lb test if you prefer braid over mono for halyards - it's thinner, doesn't stretch, and runs through pulleys with less friction.

Step 2: Install stops. Crimp outrigger stops onto the halyard at the positions where you want your release clips to ride. For a standard two-clip-per-side setup, place the first stop about 3/4 of the way to the tip and the second stop at 1/2 the distance. This gives you a long rigger position and a short rigger position.

Step 3: Attach snubbers and clips. Slide a glass snubber onto the halyard above each stop, then attach your release clip below the snubber. The snubber absorbs shock between the halyard and the clip, preventing premature releases from wave action.

Step 4: Set clip tension. This is where most people get it wrong. Clip tension must match the weight and drag of the bait you're running. Too light and the line drops constantly. Too heavy and fish can't pull it free on the strike. Start with light tension and increase until the clip holds the line without dropping on normal trolling speed bumps. A rigged ballyhoo needs lighter tension than a 12-inch skirted lure.

Step 5: Test under power. Deploy your outriggers, clip in some lines, and run at trolling speed (6-8 knots for most spreads). Watch each clip for 10 minutes. If a line drops, increase tension a quarter turn. If a line won't release when you yank it hard by hand, decrease tension. Fine-tune until every clip holds cleanly at speed but releases with a firm strike.

Adjusting Spread Patterns by Species

Different species require different spread widths and bait placements. Here's how to adjust your outrigger setup by target.

Billfish (white marlin, sailfish, blue marlin): Run your outriggers at maximum spread - 60-75 degrees from the hull. Billfish approach from the sides and rear, so wider coverage puts baits in their line of sight. Run long rigger baits 120-150 feet back, short rigger baits 80-100 feet back. Light release clip tension - billfish mouth baits before eating them, and any resistance causes drop-backs. For trolling rig details, see our how to rig a trolling spread guide.

Tuna (yellowfin, blackfin, bluefin): Tighter spread, 45-55 degrees. Tuna charge baits aggressively, so clip tension can be firmer. Run baits closer to the boat - 60-100 feet back on the riggers. Tuna respond well to a tight spread where multiple baits create a "school" appearance. A spread of feathers and small skirted lures with a Epic Fishing Co. crane swivel connecting each leader works perfectly here.

Mahi and wahoo: Standard 50-65 degree spread. Mahi travel in schools and hit anything in the spread. Wahoo hit at high speed and need firm clip tension to prevent false releases. Our trolling lures for beginners guide covers lure selection for these spreads.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

• Lines dropping early. Either your clip tension is too light, your snubbers are worn, or you're running too fast for the bait weight. Check snubber elasticity first - old rubber snubbers lose their ability to absorb shock. Replace with glass snubbers which last 5x longer.
• Tangled halyards. Usually caused by halyard line that's too limp or a pulley that allows the line to jump the sheave. Switch to stiffer halyard material or upgrade to a Hal-Lock pulley with a locking sheave.
• Wind causing premature releases. Heavy crosswinds put lateral pressure on outrigger tips, adding tension to your clips. In high wind, reduce your clip positions to the short rigger stops where the pole is stiffer, or increase clip tension by a quarter turn.
• Release clips won't hold. If you've maxed tension and lines still drop, the clip mechanism is worn. Pin-style clips wear fastest - the pin groove widens with use and tension becomes impossible to maintain. This is another reason I prefer thru-wire clips like the Epic RC100 - the wire mechanism doesn't wear the same way.
• Halyard line fraying. Check your tip pulley for burrs or corrosion. Even a small rough spot on the sheave will chew through halyard line in a single trip. Sand any burrs smooth or replace the pulley.

Tips for Better Outrigger Performance

• Label your stops. Mark each halyard stop position with colored tape so you can quickly set consistent spread patterns without measuring every time.
• Carry spare clips and snubbers. Losing a release clip 40 miles offshore means that outrigger is useless for the rest of the trip. Keep 2 spare clips and 4 spare snubbers in your tackle box.
• Match clip tension to bait. Rigged ballyhoo: light tension. Skirted lures under 8 inches: medium. Large skirted lures and daisy chains: firm. Write down your tension settings for each bait type so you can replicate them.
• Rinse after every trip. Salt corrodes halyard hardware fast. Freshwater rinse your halyards, clips, pulleys, and snubbers after each outing. Takes 5 minutes and doubles the life of your components.
• Use tag lines on long rigger positions. A 6-10 foot tag line gives billfish time to turn and eat the bait before tension comes tight. Check our ballyhoo rigging guide for step-by-step details.

Outriggers transform your trolling operation from a tangle-prone mess into a clean, professional spread that covers water efficiently. Get the rigging right during setup, match your clip tension to your baits, and maintain your hardware. The fish will take care of the rest. Tight lines.

Questions about outrigger setup or components? Call us at 888.453.3742 or email help@thetackleroom.com.

Know Before You Go: Regulations change frequently. Always check current size limits, bag limits, seasons, and gear restrictions with your state fisheries agency before heading out. For Atlantic species, visit ASMFC.org for interstate management updates.